My mother has just been looking at the different recommended tourist destinations on the map – we have been taking it one day at a time. On Tuesday, my uncle offered to guide us around and took us to Stanley Market and Shek O Beach – a beach that would have been very difficult to access if he did not drive us there.
Stanley Market was altogether unremarkable, an avenue of street vendors and a slew of European/American restaurants. If I wanted to go eat American food, why would I have traveled half way across the globe for some mediocre (and expensive) fish and chips? (I do, however, appreciate the American products that I can purchase at the grocery store, most notably peanut butter). I also appreciate how empty a typical “tourist destination” can be during the week. I would say this was probably one of the least worthwhile stops of the trip.
In contrast, Shek O Beach was a place we had not originally planned on visiting, but so very glad we did. On one side of the small town, there’s a trail leading up to an island-hill – when my uncle and my dad were kids, they would walk here from their house and the only way to the island was during low tide. From the top, you could see a small peninsula surrounded on both sides by the ocean. There is a beach on the other side of the town. While none of the beaches in Hong Kong were breathtaking by any means, this was the prettiest out of the 5 or so I have seen throughout the past week. It is more secluded with a few baby waves. The streets have not been heavily commercialized and it is still exclusively small kitchen-diners. This was definitely my favorite Hong Kong mini-excursion.
We decided that night that we would finally make the journey to Guangzhou, China. Gupo lived in Houston with us for 18+ years and I had never been to visit her. My mother was born in Guangzhou but left as a toddler to Hong Kong. Gupo speaks very fondly of her hometown – everything she could want is easily accessible to her her: delicious food, massage parlors, beautiful gardens, weekly mountain hikes with her husband. There was an entire segment of Gupo’s life that I was a stranger to – I had not even met her husband yet. I honestly had no idea what to expect. My mother calls this the countryside, as I’m sure it was back when she was born here. She had not visited Guangzhou as an adult and it does not seem like she carried many fond memories from here. My mom said the apartment Gupo lives in currently has been in the Chu family for years – dating back to her grandfather, my great-grandfather. Katherine aptly described our expectations as a grass hut. I was prepared to suck it up and tough it out for a week.
The journey from Hong Kong to Guangzhou is about 3 hours using public transit. We take the MTR to the train, cross the border and hop on another train, and finally take a taxi to Gupo’s. We are on a street with a ton of food and grocery vendors and all of a sudden we stop in front of a rusty gate. There is a group of old women huddled outside in chairs they brought from home (there’s a stool, office rolly, kitchen chair) and a group of men crowded around a game of Chinese chess. I’m thinking, oh boy, this is it. Gupo calls her husband to come downstairs and when Gupo asks if he knows who we are, he gives her an “Oh come on” look, correctly addresses us both very matter-of-factly, as if we had known each other from a long time ago.
We have to walk up four flights of dimly light stairs. The stairwell has a hint of trash smell from the tenants that leave their trash outside their door. I’m feeling prepared, and then we walk inside, and the place is nothing like I expected. The floor is all new marble, there are two living rooms divided by a glass wall, a large kitchen space, a bar area with five yellow contour stools, a bedroom a bathroom, and a balcony with a small home garden. Part of the ceiling above the bar area/kitchen is alternating grey and white tile – Katherine expected disco lights to come on. She has a projector system with surround sound speakers, a canopy on her bed, and my favorite part: a shower that has all built-in massage controls, radio, CD, a sauna setting and a telephone. Turns out her son completely redesigned and oversaw the remodeling of the apartment. This used to be a three bedroom apartment now converted into a one bedroom. I’m thinking, wow, I wish I could live in this apartment next year. Their daughter lives with her husband and her own daughter next door and have dinner together most nights. There are a few strange ornaments, like a pair of antelope horns (no skull, just horns) hanging in the main living room and another random antler hanging in the corner.
We don’t do much other than just settle in and eat (Gupo’s favorite thing to do is eat and feed us, so I’m going to come back a rolly polly) before dinner. After dinner, G and her husband took us to walk along the river, and much to my surprise, there are people everywhere. There are people of all ages – people ranging from pre-teens to 50’s playing hackysac, basketball and badminton, children with a karaoke machine and TV screen, the older taking a walk like we were. I noticed the same thing this morning as we passed a park. Everybody is out and about, even and especially the older folk. A group of about 50 women doing group exercises ranging from 18 to cute white-haired grandmas. It seems to have a better community feel here, a feeling that I definitely miss in big cities like Hong Kong. Down to the smallest things, for example, here people always give up their seats to Gupo and her husband on the subway whereas in Hong Kong that did not happen once.
Basically, Gupo’s living the life over here and I didn’t even know it.